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Travel Guide 5 min read

Live your Fairyland Dream in the Isle of Skye

By Ryan Shirley

September 5, 2019

My name is Ryan Shirley, and I recently returned from an epic adventure to Scotland's infamous Isle of Skye. Here's a guide to experience my favorite places.

I landed in Edinburgh Airport and started driving over to the Isle of Skye.

Glenfinnan Viaduct — My first pitstop was at the Glenfinnan Viaduct. It's about a three-and-a-half-hour drive from the airport. It isn't on the Isle of Skye but it's on the way and it is an amazing location. The Viaduct got famous from the Harry Potter movies. You can walk around the viaduct and hike to some viewpoints that show a wonderful perspective of the train going over the viaduct.

Old Man of Storr — After the Viaduct, I headed over to the infamous Old Man of Storr. It's about a two-hour drive from the Glenfinnan Viaduct. The Old Man of Storr is a stunning rock formation. The main reason that I wanted to come to the Isle of Skye is that it is surrounded by green grass and other mountains. It's about a 4-kilometre hike. I loved the hike so much that I did it two times for sunrise and sunset. It's a must location that everyone needs to visit.

Mealtfalls — After the Old Man of Storr, you can make the short drive over to Mealtfalls. It's a beautiful waterfall that falls off a cliff into the ocean below. There is a great viewpoint where you can see the waterfall.

Fairy Glen — After Mealtfalls, you can drive around the north side of the island to the magical Fairy Glen. You'll have to drive up a one-lane road that is a little sketchy. But you'll get to the Glen and it's just a short 5-minute walk to the Fairy Glen. It's surrounded by beautiful green grass and has famous circles in the grass. It's a wonderful location that everyone should visit.

Quiraing Mountains — The last location is in the Quiraing Mountains. You'll drive up to a parking lot and you'll be able to take an easy walk along the mountains. This was one of my favourite locations. The area is so green and is surrounded by beautiful rock formations, lakes, and lots of sheep. I was lucky to have sunny conditions. But it often is very cloudy and foggy up there. It's a must-visit location if you come to the Isle of Skye.

The Isle of Skye will make you feel like you're in a fairy tale and it's a location that everyone must visit at least once in their life.

Planning the Drive

The Isle of Skye is best experienced as a self-driven loop. A rental car out of Edinburgh or Inverness gives you the freedom to chase weather windows and stop at unmarked viewpoints, which is half the point of being on the island. Allow yourself at least three or four days. You can technically see the highlights in two, but the light on Skye changes by the minute, and giving each location a second chance under different skies is the difference between a good trip and a great one.

A few notes on the roads. Most of the routes on Skye are single-lane with passing places, marked by small white diamond signs on the verge. The etiquette is straightforward: pull into the nearest passing place, let oncoming traffic through, and wave a thanks. The drive over from Glenfinnan, while gorgeous, gets considerably narrower the closer you get to the bridge across to the island, so factor that into your timing.

When to Visit

Late spring through early autumn offers the most reliable weather window, with long daylight hours that stretch your usable day well into the evening. Midsummer can bring midges, the tiny biting insects famous in the Scottish Highlands, so a head net and repellent are genuinely useful. Autumn paints the heather and the bracken in deep purples and rusts, with the bonus of thinner crowds. Winter is dramatic and challenging, with short days and roads that can close in snow, but the light when it does break through is unmatched.

Beyond the Headlines

Ryan's list catches the famous spots, but the island holds more if you have the time. The Neist Point Lighthouse, on the westernmost tip of Skye, is the classic sunset photo of the island. The Coral Beaches near Dunvegan are made of crushed seashells that look bright white against the green hills, an unexpected texture in a landscape mostly defined by rock and water. Sligachan Bridge offers a foreground for the Cuillin range that has launched a thousand postcards.

For a quieter half-day, drive the Sleat peninsula in the south of the island. The roads thin out, the crowds vanish, and the views across to the mainland mountains carry an atmosphere that gets more remote with every mile. The Armadale Castle gardens are a worthwhile cultural stop in this stretch if you want to mix history into the day.

Food, Drink, and Where to Stay

Portree, the main town, is the practical base for most visitors, with a colorful harbor and a clutch of restaurants and pubs. Reservations are essential during peak season, since the population on the island swells dramatically in summer. Smaller villages like Dunvegan and Broadford have their own atmosphere and are useful bases if you want to be closer to specific clusters of attractions.

Look for local seafood on the menu, particularly mussels, scallops, and the unusually good langoustines that come out of the surrounding lochs. A traditional pub dinner with a dram of whisky and a slow conversation is one of the truer experiences of Skye, especially after a long day on the trails. The Talisker distillery on the western shore is open for tours and tastings.

Hiking Notes

The Old Man of Storr trail is well-trodden and well-maintained, and it can be very busy at popular times. Going for sunrise, as Ryan did, is one of the great experiences on the island. Bring layers. The Quiraing trail is longer and rougher, with sections that get exposed in high wind. The Fairy Pools, not mentioned in the original list but worth a stop, are a series of clear pools along a stream where some hardy travelers take a cold swim.

Always check weather and trail conditions before setting out. Skye weather can change in twenty minutes, and the difference between a great hike and a difficult one is often a single squall.

Practical Tips

Petrol stations are not as numerous as you'd expect, so top up when you see one. Cash is still useful in some of the smaller cafes and at honesty boxes for parking in remote lots. Pack a thermos. The hot drink you sip in the car after a windy ridge walk is one of the small joys of the trip. Keep a clean microfiber cloth in the door pocket to wipe rain off your camera lens.

Final Thoughts

Skye lives up to its fairytale reputation, but the magic shows up in the quiet moments rather than the headline shots. A rainbow over a single-lane road. The slap of wind on the ridge. The pause when the cloud lifts and the Cuillin briefly reveal themselves. Take the loop, take your time, and let the island work on you. The photographs are the souvenir. The trip is what stays.

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